Overhaul or reconditioned 13/60
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…..You would be able to use any of the small four cylinder boxes in one way or another, but it might mean changing the front flange on the propshaft for some "four synchro" boxes or using a special clutch plate of using a "single rail" gearbox from a Spitfire 1500 or 1500 saloon.
The gearbox number is stamped on the top of the main gearbox case (driver's side I think) and is visible NEXT to the alloy selector housing on the top. A Herald box should have a GA prefix I think. FC is ok as well as the early Spitfire box is the same thing.
Clutch hydraulics is unlikely to be a problem unless the clutch is dragging. That would be apparent in all gears, especially when trying to engage 1st. Engine would also tend to stall on tickover when in gear with the clutch depressed.
Changing the bushes in the remote selector system will make the gearbox feel much nicer, and will reduce gearlever rattling to a huge extent. However the grauch when changing into second (presumably much worse when changing down from third rather than up from 1st?) and the tendency to jump out of second really points to a worn synchro hub on second gear.
It IS feasible to overhaul these gearboxes yourself if you are a confident mechanic. The much maligned Hayne's manual is quite good in my view. However there are some concerns about the quality of "new" synchro rings available these days so you may want the confidence of a reconditioned box from one of our reputable suppliers.
If you DO decide to tackle the job yourself, I would recommend changing the springs in the synchro hubs, especially the 2nd gear one. They are a matter of pence to buy, and on two boxes I have overhauled at least one had broken and it was this rather than significant synchro ring wear that was causing the gearchange problem. Could also explain the jumping out of gear. Easy enough to change with the box in bits, but a LOT of work to change on its own!
In my opinion it is NOT worth any saving to buy a recon box from anyone other than a reputable supplier as with anyone cheaper the emphasis is likely to be on the "con"!! Any initial saving is likely to be a false economy.

13/60 Gearbox Problems
Chris Taylor, 31-May-2005, 12:29pm on TSSC

TSSC message forum coments on refitting a GB:

If you temporarily fit a couple of long studs (I think those that hold the engine rocker cover on are the right size) into the top two stud/bolt holes in the engine backplate, you can use these to slide the gearbox along and onto the back of the engine. It helps to support AND align the gearbox at the crucial moment. If you search through previous messages, you will probably find a

If your propshaft is as tight as you say, try loosening off the front engine mountings. (Loosen the nut on the single stud on the engine block side of the mounting, not the two nuts and bolts on the suspension tower side). This will allow the engine to slide forward slightly and give a bit of space for the propshaft flange. You will probably still need to lever the engine forward due to weight pressing down on the mountings, but it won't keep trying to spring back. Don't forget to tighten the engine mounts back up again once the propshaft nuts are tightened up again.

An alternative method of refitting a tight prop - before refitting the 'box, release the diff end of the shaft (don't forget to mark the flanges to get them back in the same relative positions, get it wrong and horrendous vibration can result). Refit the 'box, and reconnect the propshaft flange. Then, working underneath the car, you can guide the flange at the diff end while your lovely assistant bullies it slowly into position with a trolley jack. Slightly involved but it does work if there isn't an easier alternative - I've done it when changing a propshaft, levering against the engine/'box mounts didn't do much at all to gain the necessary clearance.

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