Bleeding
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Master cylinder
Bleeder screws
Utilities
Adjusting prior to bleeding, all drums


Bleeding Brakes/clutch—limit the travel of the brake pedal if using the pedal to bleed (as opposed to pressure bleeding or vacuum bleeding.) If you allow the piston in a used master cylinder to travel beyond the area of normal travel, the layer of gunk on the cylinder wall can tear up the cups, causing failure of the master shortly after. We put a block or blocks under the brake pedal to hold it about as far off the floor as it is when the brake is applied. If you happen to be replacing or rebuilding the master at the same time, so that you know the bore is clean all the way down, this tip does not apply.

From Spitfire & GT6 Magazine staff


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When attempting to bleed brakes, all too often we end up breaking off bleeder screws which innevitably leads to replacement of wheel cylinders. Try this instead.
1. Take a drill bit that is the same size as the inner diameter of the bleeder screw.
2. Using only your fingers, put the bit in the hole and spin it to make certain you get out all existing debris.
3. Remove the bit and place it in the bleeder screw butt-first until it bottoms out.
4. Loosen bleeder screw with wrench.
Bleeder screws have a tendency to collapse in on themselves and break off. By placing a drill bit (or allen wrench) inside the bleeder screw, you give the bleeder screw nowhere to collapse thereby strengthening it. It has worked for me for years and I usually don't even have to use WD-40 on it.

-Terry Stamper from GT6 Magazine

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